The evening before we stayed at the top of a mountain in a town that had been deserted and people had only just begun to return to it. The town was in ruins but we had a fun time in a Viking bar where the staff wore animal skin clothes and the walls were covered in cow hides.
This was a fantastic walk. Hardly saw any people and walked along little dirt/rock paths between these crazy mountains. The downhill was pretty tough and had a few near falls, but its so much better with less weight. We arrived in Ponferrada at around lunchtime, and came accross people dressed in funny medieval clothes. Europeans sure love to dress up, Beths kind of people : )
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